An Evolving Vision: New Horizons

In 2022, the International Quilt Museum celebrates 25 years. The 1997 donation of the 1000-piece Ardis and Robert James Collection to the University of Nebraska-Lincoln established the IQM. For the past quarter century, the James Collection has formed the museum’s core, its heart.

The IQM inherited the Jameses’ ambitious concept of what a quilt collection could be: “an absolutely comprehensive collection of quilts from all over the world.” We have also expanded upon it, sharing the collection with the world through research, interpretation, and exhibition. We have gratefully embraced the Jameses’ evolving vision and made it our own.

New Horizons

From the beginning, the International Quilt Museum’s collecting goal has been maximum global representation. The museum’s founding collection, the James Collection, comprises quilts from nine different countries, predominantly the United States. By the time the IQM was 10 years old, our collection’s country count had grown to 24, and by 2012 it was 45. Today, we have pieces from over 60 countries, a number we will continue to grow.

New Horizons presents a sampling of our international collection, a diverse group of textiles from 17 different countries that range from quilted and patchwork garments to narrative appliqué hangings, to plain old bed quilts (that are not at all plain!). In this single gallery, you can travel a world of quilts and learn why they are integral and meaningful to so many different cultures.

April 29 - October 29, 2022
Gottsch Gallery

Virtual Gallery: All Three "An Evolving Vision" Exhibitions

Gallery Photos

Works in the Exhibition

Probably made in Persia
Prayer Rug
Maker unidentified
1800-1820
Cotton and silk; hand embroidered and quilted
Gift of the Robert and Ardis James Foundation, IQM 2019.043.0008

Prayer rugs are important textiles in the Islamic world. They enable Muslims to create a sacred space in which to pray the required five times daily. The curved, roof-like portion of the rug’s embroidered design is meant to resemble a mihrab, the sacred niche in a mosque that faces Mecca. Acting like a portable mosque, the prayer rug can always be pointed in the direction of that holy city, no matter the worshipper’s actual location.

Did You Know?

“False” or “flat” quilting, like in this prayer rug, is performed with a hand-sewn back stitch, but at a quick glance it can resemble machine stitching.

Made in China
Waistcoat
Maker unidentified
1880-1900
Silk; hand quilted
Gift of the Robert and Ardis James Foundation, IQM 2011.020.0001

A rich black silk forms the base of this late-19th-century Manchu waistcoat. The Manchus were the northeast Asian ethnic group that ruled during the final Chinese dynasty, the Qing, which ruled over all of China from 1644-1912. In an interesting brush with fame, this garment was purchased by the assistant costume director for the 1987 Oscar Award-winning film, The Last Emperor, likely as inspiration for costuming.

Did You Know?

The three roundel designs quilted into the front of this waistcoat are shou symbols, which denote longevity.

Made in Japan
Vest
Maker unidentified
1850-1870
Silk; hand pieced
Gift of the Robert and Ardis James Foundation, IQM 2021.048.0001

In East Asia, patchwork is closely associated with Buddhism. Sewing scraps or small bits of fabric together symbolizes the Buddhist ideal of living a simple, frugal life. This garment is composed of many examples of silk chirimen (traditional Japanese crepe weave) fabrics, some dating from the late 18th century. This vest was likely constructed later, in the mid-19th century.

Did You Know?

Tokyo (formerly Edo) has only been the capital of Japan since 1868. For more than 1000 years (794 to 1868), Kyoto was Japan’s governmental and cultural capital. This garment is likely from the Kansai region, where the ancient city of Kyoto is located.

Made in Albania
Child’s Jacket
Maker unidentified
1910-1930
Cotton; hand embroidered and quilted
Gift of the Robert and Ardis James Foundation, IQM 2019.073.0004

Traditional Albanian dress often includes embroidery and a variety of trims. This quilted boy’s jacket is decorated with gold and silver braid and features intricate thread-covered buttons.

Did You Know?

Renowned 19th-century English poet Lord Byron sat for his most famous portrait wearing Albanian attire. Thomas Phillip painted the portrait around 1813, after Lord Byron returned from extensive European travels, including in Albania.

Possibly made in Syria
Robe
Maker unidentified
1890-1910
Cotton; hand quilted
Gift of the Robert and Ardis James Foundation, IQM 2011.001.0002

This quilted robe from the Eastern Mediterranean region, possibly Syria, represents a type of robe that was likely sold to pilgrims and tourists. These pilgrims were on their way to or from the Holy Land in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Examples like this robe, including six in the IQM collection, can be found in museums all over the world, pointing to their popularity as souvenirs. What is your most treasured souvenir?

Did You Know?

Historically, “Syria” was a much larger region than it is today, at various times also including present-day Lebanon, Jordan, Israel, and Palestine. This region was sometimes collectively referred to as the Levant.

Probably made in Persia
Cap
Maker unidentified
1840-1860
Cotton; hand quilted
Gift of the Robert and Ardis James Foundation, IQM 2021.038.0001

Made during the Qajar dynasty (1789-1925), this Persian cap features an exquisite kalamkari (block-printed and painted) paisley fabric. The term kalamkari is derived from the Persian words qalam (pen) and kari (craftwork). This art form began in Persia but spread to India and was promoted by the country’s Mughal rulers. Later, chintz and calico fabrics made with kalamkari techniques were imported by Europeans, who were enchanted by their rich, bright colors. Chintzes and calicoes, either made in India or inspired by the Indian originals, became standard materials in early European and American quilts.

Did You Know?

The paisley motif is thought to have originated in Persia as a stylized pinecone.

Probably made in Persia
Quilt with Kilim Center
Maker unidentified
1900-1920
Cotton; hand pieced and quilted
Gift of the Robert and Ardis James Foundation, IQM 2010.045.0015

Reusing textiles is a globally universal practice. This quilt’s center is a kilim rug that has been bordered with a deep blue cotton fabric and made into a quilt. Kilim rugs are constructed with a flatweave, in which the weft yarn completely covers the warp. It is a type of textile common across the Middle East and Central Asia.

Did You Know?

Persia and Iran are names for the same place. “Iran” became the official name for the country in 1935 and is the Persian word for “land of the Aryans.”

Made in Phuleli Village, Middle Sindh, Pakistan
Ralli
Made by Haleema
Circa 1994
Cotton; hand pieced, appliquéd, and quilted
Patricia Stoddard Collection, Partial gift of the Robert and Ardis James Foundation, IQM 2016.012.0077

The maker of this vibrant quilt called the pattern Biso Bulo or “Nose Jewel and Nose Ring.” The square blocks in the quilt’s center alternate between two patterns: a green and orange diagonally-split square; and a red “nose jewel” surrounded by a black “nose ring.” Collector and ralli quilt scholar Patricia Stoddard purchased this quilt from the maker in the late 1990s.

Did You Know?

In India and Pakistan, quilts have many different uses: as blankets, mattresses, floor mats, tent panels, cradles, and door coverings.

Made in Bengal, India
Kantha
Maker unidentified
1910-1930
Cotton; hand embroidered and quilted
Gift of the Robert and Ardis James Foundation, IQM 2019.073.0002

What images would you use to paint a picture of the place where you live? In this kantha quilt there is a delightful range of imagery depicting life in eastern India, including elephants, tigers, and fishes. Another prominent and repeating image is of a fearless peacock performing the job it is famous for in Indian myth and legend: killing snakes.

Did You Know?

Kanthas are made almost completely from recycled materials. White saris (wrapped garments) are used for the base cloth and their colorful, decorative borders are taken apart for the quilting thread.

Probably made in Uzbekistan
Hanging
Maker unidentified
1900-1920
Cotton; hand pieced
Gift of the Robert and Ardis James Foundation, IQM 2019.043.0001

In Uzbekistan, patchwork is a favorite textile for room dividers and decoration in the traditional yurts (rounded tents) that some Central Asian people still live in. A favorite material for patchwork is ikat, a complex fabric woven from silk threads specially pre-dyed to create intricate patterns once the weaving is performed. You can see ikat cloth as the background to several of the patchwork circles in this hanging.

Did You Know?

Uzbek women historically made patchwork hangings, mattresses, and bed covers as part of their marriage dowries, much like women in traditional societies all over the world have done.

Made in Tian’e County, Guangxi, China
Quilt Cover
Unidentified maker from the Zhuang ethnic group
1910-1930
Wool and cotton; hand appliquéd
Gift of the Robert and Ardis James Foundation, IQM 2014.027.0001

Can you find the three spiraling dragons in this quilt cover from the Zhuang people of China’s Guangxi Province? Dragons are mythical creatures that appear in many worldwide cultures and often symbolize great power. Other symbols on this piece include fish (for prosperity), butterflies (good fortune), peaches (longevity), pomegranates (fertility), and a lotus flower (purity).

Did You Know?

Although they look quite different, the two symbols in the bottom row are stylizations of the same Chinese character: 壽, which means longevity.

Made in China
Mud Shoes
Maker unidentified
1920-1950
Cotton, leather, metal studs; hand quilted
Gift of the Robert and Ardis James Foundation, IQM 2020.069.0001

The quilting stitches on these mud shoes from southern China are both utilitarian and decorative. They add a visually pleasing touch while holding together the layers of cloth protecting the wearer in muddy environments. The metal studs attached to the bottom certainly would also help in muddy, slippery conditions!

Did You Know?

Southern China, like the southeastern United States, is a humid, subtropical region with plenty of annual rainfall; thus, protective footwear is a must.

Made in Ghana
Asafo Flag
Unidentified maker from the Fante ethnic group
1920-1940
Cotton; hand appliquéd, pieced, and embroidered, machine pieced
Gift of the Robert and Ardis James Foundation, IQM 2020.067.0001

This asafo (warrior troop) flag from the Fante people of Ghana features a dragon with three heads. The Fante people transformed the European flag format as well as European mythical creatures like dragons and gryphons into their own textile art form. They used these flags decorated with threatening creatures as a way to intimidate rival warrior groups. What creature would you pick if you made a flag to represent you or your family?

Did You Know?

Like all flags, this asafo banner is double-sided because it needed to be clearly seen from all directions, which means that the maker had to create two identical three-headed dragons!

Made in Cook Islands
Tivaevae Bed Cover
Maker unidentified
1990-2000
Cotton; hand appliquéd and reverse appliquéd
ift of the Robert and Ardis James Foundation, IQM 2021.041.0001

An unknown maker from Rarotonga, one of the Cook Islands in the South Pacific Ocean, created a stylized floral motif in her tivaevae, an unquilted decorative bed cover. All across the Pacific, including in the Hawai’ian Islands, women have made large-scale “fold and cut” appliqués for generations, often using the local flora as inspiration. They learned appliqué and quiltmaking from colonizing Europeans and Americans.

Did You Know?

Polynesian peoples had a rich textile tradition prior to contact with Westerners. Tapa is a pounded bark cloth decorated with painted and dyed designs that has been made for generations across the Pacific.

Made in Kangiqliniq (Rankin Inlet), Nunavut, Canada
Hanging
Made by Eugenie Tautoonie Kabluitok (1914-1986)
1950-1970
Wool; hand appliquéd
Gift of the Robert and Ardis James Foundation, IQM 2021.032.0001

Eugenie Tautoonie Kabluitok, an indigenous artist from Canada’s Nunavut Territory, used wool felt to create a tableau of Inuit life that includes walruses, sled dogs, bear hunters, and an igloo. In addition to making felt appliqué panels, Kabluitok was a sculptor whose work is represented in several major Canadian collections.

Did You Know?

Nunavut was once part of Canada’s Northwest Territories, but in 1999 it was separated and made into an Inuit-governed territory.

Probably made in Bolivia
Hanging
Maker unidentified
1950-1970
Cotton; hand appliquéd
Gift of the Robert and Ardis James Foundation, IQM 2021.059.0001

Using appliqué and a variety of textured and colorful fabrics, a Bolivian folk artist illustrated aspects of rural life including cooking, fishing, weaving, and playing ball. Also depicted are two llamas or alpacas. These closely related animals have been used by people in the Andean mountains and high plains for thousands of years as pack animals and for meat, leather, and wool. Llamas are the national animal of Bolivia, and the country is home to more than 3 million llamas and alpacas.

Did You Know?

Bolivia’s terrain is incredibly varied, from rainforest in the East to mountains, high plains, and deserts in the West, which explains the presence of a cactus (possibly a Bolivian Torch Cactus) in this piece.

Made in Zimbabwe
Hanging
Made by Elizabeth Savanhu
Circa 2006
Cotton; hand appliquéd
Gift of the Robert and Ardis James Foundation, IQM 2006.040.0002

Zimbabwean quiltmaker Elizabeth Savanhu used appliqué to tell a story of village life filled with daily activities. See if you can find the blocks that depict:

fetching firewood,
going to the well,
brewing beer,
pounding grain,
picking mushrooms, and
herding cattle.

Did You Know?

The world’s largest waterfall, the Victoria Falls, is located along the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia. The Victoria Falls are twice the height and over twice the width of Niagara Falls.

Made in Sudan
Jibbah
Maker unidentified
1880-1890
Cotton; hand appliquéd
Gift of the Robert and Ardis James Foundation, IQM 2019.059.0001

This jibbah is a tunic worn by Sudanese officers in the Islamic Mahdist army during the struggle against Egyptian and British colonial presence in the 1880s and ‘90s. Here is a photograph of a defeated Sudanese officer conferring with British General Sir Francis Reginald Wingate, Governor General of the Sudan from 1899-1916:

Did You Know?

The jibbah’s appliquéd squares not only made an officer more visible on the battlefield, but their simplicity represented the Mahdists’ rejection of material wealth and their commitment to a strict Islamic lifestyle.

Probably made in Thessaloniki, Greece
Whole Cloth Quilt
Maker unidentified
1930-1950
Cotton; hand quilted
Gift of the Robert and Ardis James Foundation, IQM 2014.052.0001

This bright yellow whole cloth quilt from Thessaloniki, Greece went on a big, important journey—with a family who immigrated to the United States in 1951. It was part of the limited luggage this Greek family could bring with them to start their new American lives. What would you take with you if you were immigrating to another country?

Did You Know?

The city of Thessaloniki is named after an ancient Macedonian princess who was the younger half-sister of Alexander the Great. She also evolved into a local myth as a mermaid who protected the city’s harbor.

Probably made in Calabria, Italy
Whole Cloth Quilt
Probably made by Fortunata Cimato
1900-1920
Silk; hand quilted
Gift of the Robert and Ardis James Foundation, IQM 2019.001.0001

This quilt’s central image depicts what appears to be a common Christian motif: a mother pelican feeding her own blood to her chicks to save them, a story with parallels to Christ’s sacrifice. Do you see the similarity between this quilt and the two early 17th-century prints by Flemish artist Crispijn de Passe the Elder?

Did You Know?

The region of Calabria forms the “toe” of Italy. It is surrounded by the sea, which might explain the two seashell motifs in the quilt’s border.

Works in the Exhibition

First Friday Fun Activities

Watch this video to celebrate animals in quilts around the world, and explore the symbolism different animals hold in different cultures. Then, try our Hide and Seek Activity in the virtual gallery for An Evolving Vision: The James Collection 1997-2022- New Horizons, located on this webpage. Download the Hide and Seek Activity here.

Past

Event Date

Friday, April 29, 2022 to Saturday, October 29, 2022